If you’re going to make a mask, why not make it fabulous.
We know that many of you are making cloth face masks as fast as your machines can sew – for yourself, friends and family members. But after you’ve made so many, why not get a bit more creative? If you’ve got advanced sewing skills put them to the test and give these bias bound masks with stabilizer a try. Have fun quilting the top layer, or adding embroidery or lace. Embellishing with hardware like rivets is not out of the question. Take a look: this post has links to a detailed PDF tutorial you can print and easily reference; it includes the free sewing pattern for these masks.
Please note these CDC recommendations regarding the use of cloth face coverings in public.
Also note that DIY face masks are not intended to prevent infection or disease.
A good looking mask, with solid structure, too.
This is what your mask will look like. It’s bias bound with stabilizer, and it’s reversible. To get started, print out the PDF tutorial and sewing pattern. This pattern offers a sturdy structure so the surface of the mask can have a bit more detail.
Gather your supplies.
- 2 pieces of contrasting fabric, 12″ x 6″
- 2 pieces single or double sided fusible stabilizer 6″ x 6″
- 80″ of bias binding (packaged or made with a 1″ Dritz bias tape maker)
- Sewing machine
- Print out of full tutorial and sewing pattern
Optional: 2–sided tape such as Dritz Place Me Perfectly Tape to adhere to inside of mask for a tight ﬁt
Cut fabric and stabilizer.
Using the outer curved line on the pattern, cut 4 pieces of fabric – 2 of each color or print, right sides together.
Then, using the inner curved line on the pattern, cut 2 pieces of stabilizer, right sides together.
Fuse fabric and stabilizer.
Place the stabilizer adhesive side down on the wrong side of two matching pieces of fabric so inner curve is about 1/2″ from edge of fabric. Follow manufacturer’s directions to fuse.
Make a fabric sandwich: Place non-stabilized pieces of fabric right sides together. Place fused fabric pieces right sides together on top of the non-stabilized fabric, lining up the curved nose edge of the fabric. Check to make sure the edges of the stabilizer line up. Pin.
Stitch all 4 pieces together along the curved edge only, ﬂush to the edge of the stabilizer.
Trim the seam allowance along the curved edge to 1/8″.
Pull one layer of unstabilized fabric snugly over the nose and pin. Right side of fabric should face out on both sides of mask. The trimmed seam allowance should ﬂatten at the nose. Pin so fabric is smooth and evenly positioned.
For single-sided fusible stabilizer, stitch all around mask 1/4″ from edge. For double-sided fusible stabilizer, press the second side so it fuses to the stabilizer. Fabric should be smooth on both sides.
Topstitch the nose 1/4″ from the nose seam being careful not to pleat the fabric.
Trim the excess fabric around all sides ﬂush to the edge of the stabilizer.
Make the binding.
If you are making your own binding, cut bias strips 1-7/8″ wide. Stitch short ends right sides together, creating a strip that is at least 80″ long. Press the seams to the side. Trim tips of seam allowance ﬂush to the long edge of the fabric. Use a 1” bias tape maker to form the bias tape.
Press the tape in half lengthwise, aligning the folded edges to create the binding. Bias tape makers are so easy to use – check out our YouTube video and see for yourself.
Attach the binding.
Fold binding over each short straight end of the mask. Trim ends to the edge of the mask. Pin. Stitch along the inside folded edge, making sure you are catching the folded edge underneath.
Divide the remainder of the binding in half.
Find the center of one piece. Fold the binding over the bottom edge of the mask, aligning the center of the binding with the nose seam of the mask. Pin so binding wraps the edge evenly. Binding will extend about 14″ on each side of the mask. The extensions form the ties. Topstitch the binding starting at one end, across the mask and continue to the opposite end.
Optional wire for nose fitting.
Cut a piece of wire 6″ long. Fold each end inward to form a tight loop.
Center the wire across the top of the mask no more than 1/4″ from the edge. (Do not place it further in to the mask as the binding stitching will hit the wire.) Set machine to a zigzag stitch, width and length at 3. Carefully zigzag over the wire to secure; stitch slowly to avoid hitting the wire with the needle.
Repeat to attach the remaining bias binding to the mask. Pin in place. Stitch carefully across the center if you have added nose wire to avoid a broken needle.
Fold the end of each tie 1/4″ under twice. Pin. Stitch across the inner fold to hem. If ties are too long, cut and re-hem.
It’s a wrap.
Your mask is finished! It’s reversible, so wear it with either side facing out, but be sure to wash it between wearings!
Take it up a notch.
Don’t be afraid to get creative! Our designers had fun putting all kinds of twists on these bias bound masks.
Test your embroidery skills! The orange print mask (top) is finished with a blanket stitch.
The purple print mask (middle) is quilted. This was a bit of an experiment, and if you play around with quilting techniques, you will want to watch the overall thickness of the mask.
The blue mask at the bottom was made with an old dish towel (a great material for masks, by the way) and super soft recycled denim for the bias edging and ties. And check out those rivets!
How about some lace.
Talk about beyond basic – here we added some lace to the mix. The pink mask has a layer of lace added to one of the fabric layers. The yellow mask is constructed using Battenburg lace as one of the fabric layers. It’s all about the materials you have on-hand. Utilize fabric scraps and interesting materials in your stash.
Stay safe, friends!